While some people expected the next fashion season to be strictly commercial and gloomy, it proved to bring a lot of surprises and promises, if we take into consideration the runways. Clearly the main features are the generous volumes, the oversize, the androgynous silhouettes, the masculine fabrics and cuts, aquatic and equastrial themes, return to the style of the 70s and even of the 50s, black and other dark colors, lather and a touch of lace.
Trench coat, rangers and the chromatic dominance of khaki tones have been reccurently seen on the catwalks of the most famous fashion designers, such as Balmain and Victoria Beckham. Inspired by the rigor of the army, the silhouettes have become more stringent, the outfits tougher and the soldier’s uniform is reinterpret as a fashion garment in the form of brandenburg jackets, collared shirts and infantry caps, gold badges and medals.
Women walking the catwalk during Jean Paul Gaultier or Versace shows have dark pale complexions, ebony hair and a fatal figure. Mysterious vampires dressed in leather, fishnet and lace, they plunge into total darkness with Givenchy or spread the gothic spirit all over the audience with Dolce & Gabbana and its floral canvas. Updated in accordance with the contemporary style, the bouquet of roses embroidered in cross stitch and other tapestry designs are combined with sequins and oriental pearls, resulting into outfits inspired by the Art Deco style with Valentino.
While African patterns set the tone for the spring summer season of 2012, winter collections switched their inspiration sources to Asia. Reinterpret in a Western style, the Mao collar, the traditional Manchu dresses which could be seen on the runways of Proenza Schouler, Dries Van Noten and Barbara Bui give the impression that the creators have stopped over Shanghai, Beijing or Hong Kong.